Something Gourmet
Article and photo by Monika Smith
My flowering perennials that normally start early are done flowering and are going for a break and a snooze; I hope some come back in the fall. The mild winter, then the big heat and dryness of earlier months, is again changed to warm then hot in early August, with lots of rain in the evenings and some spectacular lightning. Will that continue throughout September? Who knows.
The wild strawberries (Fragaria virginiana) provided a wonderful nosh. The pin cherries (Prunus pennsylvanica) and silver buffalo berries (Shepherdia argentea) are for the critters. My Saskatoons (Amelanchier alnifolia) are still small shrubs, and I’m desperate to have some beaked hazelnuts (Corylus cornuta) someday.
I’ve been doing a bit of harvesting of my very ripe golden currants (Ribes aureum), and oh my, how delicious the fruit is. If ever there is a perfect Alberta shrub, this gets my vote. Frankly, I really have no idea why this gorgeous plant hasn’t been commercialized, hybridized, or something to bring it to public attention and sale. I’m going out on a limb and swear that it’s better than Saskatoons or raspberries (Rubus idaeus); it’s right up there with wild strawberries, as each of these admittedly delicious fruits have some, often tiny, shortcomings.
So, as fan number one, I’m definitely on a mission now to popularize this plant. So, what is it about it that has lifted it above all others? The fruit. I won’t go over how beautiful the shrub is in flower or the delicious spicy scent of the blossoms. The ripe berries are black, just like a regular currant in size and shape. The fruit is milder and if I dare say, an aristocratic cousin. A refined, pleasing taste that you can just eat off the branch, without the overwhelmingly strong flavour that a ripe black currant can offer! No, these berries sneak up on the palate in a gentle, tasty currant-like way. But what jolted me in a most pleasurable surprise was the hit of vanilla that followed the delicate black currant flavour! I had to eat a few more to believe it. Oh my, so delicious. The flavour is delicate, so too much sugar or other flavourings would beat it into oblivion. Maybe just placed on a dessert with a mint leaf? A subtle dessert, such as a panna cotta? I must ask, where are the ambitious chefs who are foraging Alberta, amplifying, praising, and using the wonderful wild treats or adding the plants to their kitchen gardens for new delicious offerings?
So, consider that the glove slapped, the mic dropped, and challenge given! I’m not a ‘foodie’ or purist, not even a great cook; I’m just puzzled! This shrub is here in Alberta! It grows very well and quickly, has all the benefits of a native shrub, and deals with what’s thrown at it. And it has wonderfully cascading yellow flowers that are wedding worthy. It’s been hanging around as long as raspberries, Saskatoons, and other fruits, but seems to have been ignored. I do have beef with commercial fruit growers. Where have the black currants gone? Bring them back! I used to be able to get syrups, candies, and jams readily, but those products have retreated to the English, European, or specialty food or grocery store corners. I happen to love black currant syrup, but the cost has more than doubled. If you haven’t had a Kir or Kir Royale, it’s a mix of black currant and white wine or sparkling and you’re missing out.
Until next time,
Monika’s Grove
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